Welcome To Hydro Fuel Solutions
Here we will be posting different articles about How to gain mileage. The oxygen sensor was introduced in mass back in 1981 on GM vehicles. And has been used by all manufactures sence then. It has an operating range of 0-1 volt. The higher the voltage the richer the detected AFR. The lower the voltage, the leaner the AFR. A rich mixture is a lean command. A lean mixture is a rich command. It is commonly called a Narrow-Band sensor because it is only accurate within a narrow range of AFR operation. Right at the 14.7:1 AFR, a small change in AFR yields a large change in voltage. As the engine goes leaner or richer from the 14.7:1, the voltage changes get smaller and smaller. A device that has been used for several years is the Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer (EFIE) developed by George Wiseman of Eagle Research. The principle is to create a small amount of voltage offset that is electrically isolated from chassis ground. It is like a free-floating battery installed inline with the signal wire. This raises the voltage to the ECU indicating a richer-than-actual AFR. If you have an older vehicle with loose parameters, you may be able to add as much as 0.450 volts to the O2 signal. If you have a newer vehicle with tight parameters, you may not be able to get away with more than about 0.280 volts. Experimentation will dictate what your ECU will tolerate. The old single wire sensors are easy to spot the signal wire, since it is the only one. There have been 2-, 3-, and 4-wire sensors used over the years. You may have to use a manual to determine which wire is the signal wire. Usually on a 4-wire sensor, you have 2 white wires for the heating element, a grey wire that is ground, and a black wire for your signal out. Another method is to add an O2 extender to the o2 sensor This pulls the sensor out of the exhaust stream and allows for leaning out the AFR. this Does not always work on app 20 % of the vehicles you will have to install an EFIE Good news! You can use the same EFIE on the signal wire of a wide band. The blue wire is for the signal. Wide bands will have 5 wires. That’s the dead give-away. They have been used widely on VWs and Mazdas. These are used a lot on Toyotas and other makes AFR sensors operate under a totally different set of rules. The same sensor is used in 2 different ways by various OEMs. One method involves putting a fixed voltage on the reference wire (white) and varying the current to maintain a fixed voltage on the signal wire (blue). Another method is to apply a fixed voltage and current to the reference wire, and monitor the voltage coming out. Either way, they are current devices, not voltage devices. To alter an AFR sensor, cut the blue signal wire and install low value resistors. The range will be 30 ohms or less. Most of the vehicles have liked the 7 to 18 ohm range. I’ve never needed over 20 ohms as of yet. Again, an Ohm Ranger or low value pot will be helpful in your tuning. You will be able to feel 1 ohm resistance change. Almost all modern vehicles, either fuel injected or carbureted, employ oxygen sensors to tell the vehicle's computer if the air/fuel mixture is too rich or too lean. The computer uses the information from the 02 sensor to determine if more or less fuel should be added to the mix in order to maintain the correct proportion. Most vehicles are designed to operate at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7 to 1. When these proportions are being supplied to the engine, a certain amount of oxygen will be detected in the exhaust by the 02 sensor, and this information is fed into the vehicle's computer. If more oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too lean (not enough fuel), and adds fuel to the mix. Likewise, if less oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too rich (too much fuel) and cuts back on the fuel fed to the engine. This is actually an artificial relationship, but has been found to be workable with the existing techniques of burning fuel in your car's engine. There's a big problem with this scenario as soon as you start adding a workable fuel efficiency device. For any given air/fuel ratio, burned more efficiently, the oxygen content in the exhaust will rise. If you have two or more efficiency devices installed, even more oxygen will be present in the exhaust. The oxygen content rises as the fuel is burned more efficiently for a number of reasons. Chief amongst these are a) less fuel is being used to produce an equivalent amount of horsepower, and b) less oxygen is being consumed to create carbon monoxide in the exhaust. The bottom line is there is more oxygen in the exhaust as the fuel burning efficiency is increased. So, now that we have spent time and money to install a fuel efficiency device or two, and we are getting a more efficient fuel burn, what does the vehicle's computer do? It dumps gas into the mix in an attempt to get an oxygen reading in the exhaust equal to it's earlier, inefficient setup. This will then negate the fuel savings of just about any efficiency device, and in some cases will actually cause an increase in fuel consumption, despite having a workable fuel efficiency device. The handling for this situation is simple. The signal coming from the 02 sensor needs to be adjusted to compensate for the increased fuel efficiency being achieved. Basically we need to fool the computer into thinking that the engine is still burning gas inefficiently, by making it think there is less oxygen in the exhaust than there actually is. The amount of change to the signal has to be easily adjustable to accommodate different amounts of efficiency increase from the varying types of efficiency devices that are available. It should be noted that an oxygen sensor handling device, by itself, is not a fuel efficiency device. It possibly could be used to control the vehicle's computer, and make the engine burn a little leaner, and this could possibly give a small increase in gas mileage. But this is not what it was designed to do. It was designed to complement, and in some cases make possible, increased gas mileage using other fuel efficiency devices. BROWN RED WATER in a hydrogen generator very quickly what is it?
What works and don't work!
Also about how the O2 sensor works and how to fool it to get it NOT to see the extra oxygen from a HHO generator!
Also if you have the infamous AFR sensor how to deal with it!
If your looking for an EFIE the best is from www.fuelsaver-mpg.com
Note AFR= Air Fuel Ratio
EFIE = Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer
ECU = Engine Computer
If your planning on adding a HHO generator of any type to your vehicle the first thing you will need is a repair manual for your vehicle. The reason for this is you will need to be able to locate and sometimes alter different sensors on this vehicle to get the HHO generator to preform well
Also a good Multimeter
And most time a good Amp meter for amp draw setup of the HHO generator
There is a Item called a Fuse Buddy that is a great little amp guage that plugs right in to fuse holders for direct amp readingsOld Style O2 Sensor
Wide Band Sensors
AFR Sensors
We here at Hydro Fuel Solutions will have these trim pots mounted and pre wired coming in mid May look in our store for it.
This trim pot will also work for the 4 and 5 wire MAF and MAP sensors you cut the ground wire on these sensors and install it to adjust AFROxygen Sensor Adjustment - General Information
The Solution
OTHER HELP
This is natural it is the iron that is in all water. The first thing that starts to happen when you electrolize water to break it in to hydrogen and oxygen is that the iron in the water starts to be released and is called Iron bloom. Steam distilled and rain water has less iron but it still has some iron in it and this is what requires us to have to clean the HHO generators fairly often. This is why we say Don't buy a generator that you can't flush out or take apart to clean for sooner than later you will have to clean it. Normal operation on a hydrogen generator will require you to drain and flush the system normaly every few weeks of operation.
